Re: TikiWiki and Dreamweaver
I think most of the worth-while customization of tikiwiki is done in the stylesheet, in fact a large portion of layout is done there.
I don't really have any knowledge of dreamweaver other that I don't really like it, but I expect dreamweaver can edit the stylesheet for you, when it comes to editing the templates, I tend to prefer a good-ole text editor, just because I can actually see what's going on.
I don't know what anyone else's experience is with dreamweaver, maybe there is a way. Although I can't see dreamweaver being useful - except maybe it's syntax highlighting on the html editor, that's always useful, if dreamweaver doesn't speak smarty, I think you're better off without it.
In short, easy customization can be done through the stylesheet. So maybe you could start there. Once you get stuck into the templates, you really need to see what you're doing to the code because there are portions of the logic in there which need to be looked after.
RW